Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Ruth and the Excitement of Houses and Cheese

Today marks 100 days that I have been in Morocco. Yay, me! (And all my staaj mates!) The last three months and ten days have been an absolute blur, in the best possible way, although it's incredibly difficult to focus on exactly what has happened. All I know is that I know a little bit more darija than I knew 100 days ago, *sometimes* people understand what I'm trying to say (sigh), and that I've eaten enough sheep/goat/mystery meat to last a lifetime.

To add to that excitement, there have been some exciting things happen to me in the last 4 days:
- I signed the contract with my landlady for my new house. My own house as of January 1!
- I discovered the amazing cheese counter at the Marjane in Agadir. Blue cheese! Feta! Mozzarella!
- I got a pink Christmas tree in the post from my mum. And a slinky!
- My town got flooded and there's 10 foot deep holes in the mud roads. Swimming!

Wait… scratch that last.

So, to add to point number one - I finally have my own house - and I am the proud new possessor of keys. Just a few more days until I can finally have my own space back, unpack my suitcase, not worry about a four year-old slapping me in face as a greeting each morning, and not have to eat unidentifiable (and questionable) pieces of meat for lunch and dinner. It's no palace, but it's cozy, has a new tile floor in the bedroom, and a bigger window than it had 2 weeks ago. And very soon, it will have lots of new things in it, like buckets for flushing the turk with. Yay!

And to add a few things about the Marjane in Agadir, and Agadir itself - very pretty beach, will be gorgeous in the summer I'm sure, but lots of nice little cafes on the boardwalk, although I have yet to find the souk. Marjane is going to be my new escape, for those days when I need to get away for a hot minute. Cheese, yes, lots of cheese, which we all know makes me very happy. But also - Nutella, Haagen Daaz ice-cream, "grape juice", cheese, soy sauce, Dolmio sauce, Colgate toothpaste, cheese, good shampoo… all sorts of fun things.

And as long as all my escapes from site end in cheese, all will be right in the world.

xoxo

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Ruth and the Rumors of Spinach

On Monday, I heard a rumor about there being spinach in the town I visited for the day. And no less than three minutes after hearing this rumor - it was spotted. Definitely a day for the books - spinach, cherry tomatoes, grapefruit, and red peppers were all spotted. Sadly, since I'm not cooking for myself yet, I didn't partake of any of these wonderful things, but just makes me more and more excited about living on my own again (not that my family isn't wonderful, don't get me wrong, but I would kill for a salad).


I went to Taroudant on Monday, which is about 40 minutes by taxi to the East of me, to meet with the delegate of the Ministry of Artisana, which was all fine and dandy, and then spent the day with a 2nd year volunteer, who showed me the good pizza in town, where to get contact lens solution, I bought some cheese (just the soft goats cheese kind, but still - excitement!) and… spinach! Oh, and we found a new ice-cream shop too. There are treasures indeed in Taroudant. And shops that you can walk into - which are severely lacking in Houara. I'm definitely going back for the veggies and housing bits.


*Side note from Wednesday: Found cheese in Houara today!! In a walk-in shop!! Life is good, or at least on the up.


Despite all my cheese excitement of the past couple of days, many of my conversations this week have gone something like this :


Host mum: This singer is from Morocco.

Me: She's very good. Is she very popular here?

Host mum: Yes, but she's from Egypt, so she's not singing in darija.

Me: (silence.)


-- or --


Next door neighbor, Amina: You need to go and see Fatima (future landlady) about your new window.

Me: Okay, no problem. When should I go? Is she at her house now?

Amina: Now, go now.

(Goes and gets shoes)

Me: Okay, I'm going to go and see Fatima, and then I will go to Houara.

Amina: Why are you going to see Fatima?

Me: To see about the window.

Amina: But she's not at her house now. Later.

Me: (silence.)


I'm still confused. And will continue to be, probably until 2012.


xoxo.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Ruth and the Ginormous Feast of Food

I just spent the last three hours eating lunch. Three hours. Four courses. Two of them were full meals. And so obviously I asked why were we having such a big meal? What was the occasion?The response? No occasion. It's just a Thursday, that's all. But my host mum and all the other women that live in our building, who are all related, just decided that they wanted to get dolled up, and have a massive meal. Really, really massive. I'm in pain. I don't ever want to move again. It was like having a full cooked lunch (of lamb tagine), immediately followed by a full cooked dinner (of couscous - the biggest serving bowl full I've ever seen, filled with stomach wrapped in intestine - mmm), followed by fruit (my mum made sure I ate three pieces), followed by cakes and biscuits and tea. And throughout all of this, everyone is telling me to eat, you're not eating enough, your stomach is too small, you have to eat more, why don't you want to get fat, you're so tiny you can't be eating enough… and so on and so forth, and they think my I'm full protestations are just the funniest thing ever. Oh, and they threw in a couple of you have no idea what we're saying, do you, and you don't understand anything, just for good measure! I'm pretty sure I'm going to explode if I have to eat dinner - I've eaten more than enough for one day - and I think my stomach is realizing the sheer volume in there and is about to revolt.

Backtracking as usual, this last weekend I spent in Marrakech, which is quite the town. It's big, it's noisy, it's full of people, it's full of people wanting to sell you things, and this weekend it was full of the Marrakech Film Festival (saw Keanu Reeves, again…) as well as about 40 of us volunteers for a Peace Corps/USAID sponsored craft fair. Unfortunately the women from my association didn't attend, but it was definitely great to see how it all came together, so that when the next fair comes around I can get my women involved. On the bus home I had some time to do some good thinking about projects that I want to get involved with, both in regards to my association and for myself, and so I'm looking forward to throwing myself in to things. However, first I'm going to concentrate on the basics - language, a house, settling in, remembering people's names. I had my first tutoring session this morning - and it made me miss my CBT and LCF SOOooo much. Everything seemed so much easier there!

This week I also manage to get my Carte de Sejour business all finished, which is good news since the stamp in my passport expires next week, which means I would be here illegally. I experienced the process of Moroccan paperwork at it's finest I think. First I went to the office where I was told I could get said card, presented myself and my paperwork, only to be told I couldn't get it there. But, the gentleman I spoke with wanted photocopies of all my paperwork anyway. Fine. So then I went to the right office, but there was no chief of the gendarmes there, who is the man I needed to speak to. That was trip #1. Trip #2 - met the chief of the gendarmes, but was told I needed six copies of everything, and 600dh to apply, when I was told just 100dh. I got said photocopies, but called the PC to ask about the 600dh since that didn't seem right to me. PC called the gendarme, and told them no, 100dh was right. They agreed. Trip #3 - no chief of gendarmes at the office. Trip #4 - no chief of gendarmes at the office. Trip #5 - I took my six photocopies, and then was told, no, four would be fine. But they all needed to be notarized. Trip #6 - to the commune, where there is a notary. Done. Trip #7 - no chief of gendarmes at the office. Trip #8 - Handed in my notarized photocopies, but now my passport photos are too big. Last week they were fine. Sat in the gendarmes for nearly 2 hours while watching lovely, but technology-challenged chief painstakingly type all my information in the computer, then struggle with the 20-year old printer that likes to chew paper. According to him, I was born in United Kingdom, USA. Trip #9 - Hand in new photos, and apparently I'm done. I'm told nothing else is needed - but I'm still waiting for the phone call to tell me there's another thing they need. But, all that said and done, I still have to visit my gendarme once a month in order to get a renewed bit of paper that says I'm legal. Oof. I can only compare it to the Californian DMV, but worse. At least they don't keep changing the requirements on me.

Anyway, so that's that. Now, I'm going to try and avoid more food.

xoxo.

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Ruth and the Stories of the Small Successes

I've decided that this whole thing is going to be about small successes. If I can set myself a few small tasks to tackle each day, shwiya b shwiya (little by little), I'll get there. On Monday, my victory was picking up my suitcase from the bus station where it had been delivered for me. Of course then, I had to drag my effing 50 pound suitcase through rain, mud, rocks, and puddles for two miles to get the silly thing home, and yes, I cursed some (or a lot) of the way. But I succeeded and I now have all my possessions in one place at one time, for the first time in two months. Despite the severe lack of big shoes, chocolate, and cheese contained in my suitcase, this success is very happy making.


On Tuesday, my success was asking about houses for rent in the town. I went to a couple of the four hanoots in the town, and asked the men there, in very halting darija - there was a lot of pep talking to myself before doing this: since I live in such a small town, anything I do is fodder for everyone basically, so I rehearsed the conversation in my head several times before attempting it. And of course it didn't go the way I planned, but Hamed at the hanoot humored me greatly, and I'm pretty sure I understood what he was saying. Which was that there is another house in town for rent (besides the one I know about), but the man who owns it is currently on the pilgrimage to Mecca, so I would have to bletti shwiya (wait a little), maybe a week or two, until he returned. Mashi mushkil. No problem.


I'd like to take a second and talk about a couple of darija words that I love.

- Shwiya. The word of many meanings. Can be 'a little', as in, "bgit zid atay? yih, shwiya, shukran." ("Would you like more tea? Yes, a little, thank you.") Of course, if you ask for 'a little' more of something, you're going to get a lot, so it doesn't really work in that context. Can also mean sketchy, as in, "shwiya internet". I have that - internet that comes and goes. There's the phrase shwiya b shwiya, as in above, which I say about 50 times a day, especially when someone is telling me I know no darija, and understand nothing.

- Mashi mushkil. No problem. It's just fun to say, that's all. Go on, try it. Plus it's a basic and much needed phrase.

- Safi. Means enough. Or that's all. Or okay. Or use it as a question. Or I like to say it at the end of sentences just because I can.


Today, I had a few small successes - and they are really silly, but whatever gets me through the day, right? Today was about conversational successes, ie. making myself understood. I went to the cyber, the photocopying shop, the post office, the mul xodra (vegetable man) and the association I'm going to be working with, and managed to ask where I could get photocopies, get the photocopies I needed, ask about my package coming to me, shoot the breeze, and get some product to take with me to Marrakech to show and maybe sell. All in that order. And on my own. Ha. Take that darija.


In a couple of minutes my task will be explaining to my host mum that I will be leaving the house at 7am to walk the 40 minutes to the next town (see below) to get the bus to Marrakech at 8am. The challenge here is that my host mum is I'm sure going to berate me about the early hour, and insist on making me breakfast (which I won't want that early in the morning) and then I'll feel bad that she's going to insist on getting up, when she usually doesn't get up until later than this. Wish me luck.


One other thing I'm going to mention quickly, because I'm sure I'll refer to it later, and it definitely confused the hell out of me when I first got here: the town next to mine has three names. Not one, not two, three. The official name on the sign is Oulad Teima. It's also called Houara. I have no idea why (maybe I'll discover that later). And the other name, which is my favorite, is Rbea u Rbein. Which means forty-four. 44. It's called this because it is exactly 44 kilometers from Agadir to the West and 44 kilometers from the town of Taroudant to the East. I think that's quite good really. And it's also another fun one to say. So if I talk about going to 44, you now know what I'm on about!


Oh, and I learned how to knit! Just going to throw that out there. I'm going to come back from Morocco an old lady - you've all been warned. I now knit, and later I will learn crocheting. Although, on the crocheting front, what I really want to learn is the crocheting with metal. Much cooler than just crocheting, although much more difficult and hard on the hands.


Anyway, safi. Up the stairs I go. (If there were stairs in this house.)


xoxo.

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