Ruth and the Big Move to the Big Dust Bowl.

Since LEid, I've eaten a large amount of sheep. I'm talking for every meal - except breakfast, which I skip - although other volunteers were lucky enough to have brains for breakfast. Mmmm. Since my last post, we had dinner on Wednesday, which consisted of five heads - count them, five - two were goat and three were sheep. And honestly, it was one of the most disgusting things I've ever seen. Watching people sucking on eyeballs is not something I want to see again in my two years here. Going to be avoiding that next year. Luckily I managed to not have to eat any myself, since I explained earlier in the day to my host family that I don't kill my own animals at home, and no, I really didn't know what happened to the head after it was killed. Maybe some people eat it, but not me. And they laughed at me. And so, ended my first LEid Kbir.

On Friday we had our community party to which we invited everyone we knew in the community, and cooked food for them, and said goodbye to some that we wouldn't see again before leaving. Turns out that garlic bread is widely misunderstood in Morocco - people don't like for you to mess with their hobz (bread). Remembering that bread is used as a food vehicle at every single meal, when you add garlic and butter to it, you will confirm that you are indeed crazy Americans, and think your bread is 'ugly'. Lesson learned.

Sunday, we jumped on the coach back to the beach town that we started out in when we first arrived in Morocco, and spent the afternoon either repacking or doing last minute studying. Language Proficiency Interviews were first thing on Monday morning, which I happily passed (thank goodness), and passed a little better than I thought I would, yay! Still going to need that tutor though…

Wednesday we were shipped off to Rabat for our swearing in ceremony, which was attended by the the US Ambassador to Morocco, which was kind of special. It was great to be back with our entire group again, and congratulate each other on making it through the last 70 days, seemingly in one piece still, and presumably with some vague knowledge of the language that would help with our survival in the next two years. I was trying to concentrate on breathing for the most part since I've managed to find myself with cold number two since being here. Boo. For the evening we wound up at the American Club in Rabat, and despite not being able to taste very much, I definitely enjoyed my celebratory cold beer, and subsequent Thai food (not at the American Club, to avoid confusion). Honestly, still not sure how I will survive only having Thai food on rare occasions, as opposed to my previous at least once a week habit. Fingers crossed.

So, now, I write from the living room of my new host family (who I think are probably wondering why the Peace Corps sent them a sick volunteer who wants to do nothing but sleep). Arrived yesterday after the night in Marrakech (which I mostly slept through, thanks, cold), to find myself now living in a huge dust bowl. It's cooled down since I was last here - it's still about 70 degrees, which is fine, but super windy, which kicks up all the dust. There have been scattered showers though, which helps in keeping that down. Seems like rain and wind are the primary components of winter here. Maybe I will need my boots after all…

I've plenty to tackle now that I'm finally moved here - looking for a house, finding a tutor, picking up my luggage from the CTM station (somehow), meeting with my artisans, meeting the area delegate, the list goes on… although looking for a house is top of the list. I've been living out of a suitcase for 10 weeks, 3 days, 6 hours and 27 minutes, and I'm over it. I don't even know what I have with me anymore, which is not my favorite state of being.

Anyway, there's probably more to tell, but I can't think of it right now, so I'm ending this ramble here and now.

xoxo.

** Oh wait - we all thought LEid was over?? Ha - apparently not! I was just served a tagine with what I thought was just lamb in it, but my host mum told me, through fits of giggles (because she didn't know the word in English, and therefore had to act it out), that part of it was the testicles. That's nice. Didn't eat it.

Ruth and the Silence of the Lambs

(Tuesday evening, 9:41 pm)
So, it's the night before LEid and I've already seen two sheep heads, on the grill, on fire, having their fur burned off their faces. That's dinner tonight. And the feasting hasn't even begun - technically there still another three sheep that my family are going to slaughter tomorrow, although I don't know exactly where those are being kept.

(Tuesday evening, 9:53 pm)
Now I know where the sheep are. There are in the wood shed, but way up on top of all the wood, so they can't get out when you open the door… And they all have that look in their eye… they know what's going to happen to them. Poor sheep.

(Wednesday afternoon, 4:54 pm)
Something I've discovered: it was goat innards I was eating last night. Fact.
It's interesting to think just how many sheep have been killed today. My family killed three (plus two goats), the family next door killed two, two other volunteers have two that I know of, family friends have two, plus 4 chickens - in this town of 2500 people alone, there must have been hundreds of sheep slaughtered, not to mention hundreds of goats and chickens. Now multiply that across Morocco…

So, I woke up this morning about 7.30, got dressed in my finest (which is not that fine by standards these days) and went to my family's house (my family lives in two houses, but that's another story), where is was absolutely packed with people, maybe 30% of whom I actually knew. I have no idea who everyone else was, but greetings abounded, no matter that I had no idea who they were. Apparently I missed the mass breakfast, so I was promptly given my own bowl of hrira (the rice with milk kind) before my host-nephew led me to his house to find his sister. No luck, so we went visiting. The morning of LEid is spent doing just that - visit everyone you know! So, I was fed all sorts of sweet heluwa (cakes) - and we're talking at 9 in the morning still. Then the fun really began. On the walk back home I saw a huge number of sheep in any given stage of the process - being led to slaughter, just been killed, hanging in garages, skins being peeled off, heads and feet being burned. At my home I in fact missed the first sheep being killed (but no matter, there's two more), since I stopped in the street for more greeting and to watch a sheep have it's insides pulled out. My family and I sat in their large shed, and my host my burned the head and feet of the first sheep, while the insides were pulled out and cleaned, and the fat dried. Promptly the liver, heart, intestines, and I'm sure some other bits and pieces were put on the grill, and everyone feasted on liver wrapped in fat and fat sandwiches. Then sheep two was killed, and not long after, sheep three met its maker.

Lunch was all sorts of innards - stomach, liver, intestines, and other unidentifiable pieces. Meanwhile, all of this was being washed down with copious amounts of tea - I think I've drunk more tea today than in the last two months combined. Not sure what dinner's going to be, as I understand the meat is not served until tomorrow. We've got three livers to get through though, so I'm guessing that will be on the menu. The intestines that I ate last night, by the way, not all that bad. I only had a couple of small pieces, but I can tick that box now.

It quieted down considerably after lunch, and it's now picking back up again - more people visiting the house. Since I live with one of the leaders of the community, its seems that everyone visits here at some point or another. In between people visiting, my host mum gets out a big basket that holds all the dried fat, and the livers, and starts wrapping them up…

If I had ever watched silence of the lambs, I'm sure it would be just like that. A very intense and bloody day.

Tomorrow is another day of holiday - not sure what that holds in store, but whatever happens, I'm pretty sure that there are going to be more innards in my innards before the end of the day.

On that note…

xoxo.

Ruth and the Rare Malik Sighting

Our CBT town has been abuzz for the past couple of days, as the King has been scheduled to drive through the town, on his way back from a visit to another town. The last time the King drove through our town, he ordered the town to be redeveloped and beautified. So, ever since we arrived and before, there has been unpaved roads, random holes, piles of rocks or dirt, a detour (on the one main road in town), and my favorite, the two foot cliff from the sidewalk to the road. When we first spoke to the Qaid, who is one of the officials in the town, he told us everything would be completed within two months. Well, as far as we could tell that wasn't going to happen. Then, word came down that the King was going to be driving through again, and there was a mad scramble - ditches were filled in overnight, holes magically disappeared; there still hasn't been any paving to speak of, but the roads are at least flat again, and resemble roads as opposed to dirt tracks. Then last night, Moroccan flags appeared everywhere in town - and I mean everywhere - including covering entire hanoots (stores). So, we went down to see the King after lunch (after several false alarms of course), and waited with the rest of the town's population and more, who lined the entire length of the town. There were bands lined up about every 50m playing different styles of folklore music, some Berber, some Moroccan. So, drive through he did - and he was even driving the car himself - driving with one hand and waving with the other. So, it was a very quick sighting, but I've seen the King of Morocco, everyone. Then followed the largest entourage I've ever seen… a good five minutes of European cars ensued - even as we were walking away, they were still driving past. No such thing as traveling light when you're the King of Morocco!

This week is our last souq in our current town - next week is lEid El Kbir, the Big Feast, so it was a rather intense souq - everyone was shopping for Eid, including buying their sheep that will be sacrificed. There were definitely a lot more people than usual, and all of them were on a mission for sure - don't get in the way. Our family has 3 sheep; because two of the sons in the family live overseas, we're slaughtering sheep for them too. Day one is the innards eating, followed by the rest of the meat on day two - I'm going to be all sheeped out by Friday for sure. I'm still debating whether to post any pictures I get of the actual slaughter - thoughts on a postcard.

(Saturday)

We're now in the count down of the final week of CBT, and it's going to be a busy one. We have Monday and Tuesday in class, and Eid is now on Wednesday - it was unclear whether it was going to start on Wednesday or Thursday, since it's based on the new moon. Then we have our CBT party on Friday, and Saturday to pack up! Next Wednesday we will be sworn in as real volunteers - trainees no longer will we be!

Anyway, I've now gone and gotten myself another cold - yes, that's two in as many months… probably something to do with it being freezing cold in this town - so I'm going to bundle myself back up in bed with two hot water bottles, two wool blankets, a duvet, wool socks and all my clothes on. Take that, cold!

Today, I went for a short hike up on the rocks behind our school, and as I was walking out of my house, there were two small girls walking towards me. They cannot have been more than 3 or 4 years old, but I said hello to them (in darija, of course) and they both came bounding up to me for kisses on the cheeks. It's amazing, that, and yes, it's a small town here, but the children have no concept of the idea of not talking to strangers, which of course is the notion that I was raised upon. Just interesting, and it made my day a little bit.

Ktr mnb3d LEid!

(More after Eid!)

xoxo

Ruth and the Sunset Photo Madness

Sorry for the mass photo post, but it's been a while. A short explanation follows as I've been all over the place. Sorry in advance for all the sunset photos, but they are pretty, and I got carried away, okay?

1. Goat on mountain. In current town.

2. Current town from top of said mountain.

3. Mars. From the roof of our hotel in which we have our training meetings.

4. Same town as above.

5. Lake somewhere between Kenifra and Azrou.

6. Mosque in Marrakech!

7. Mosque in Marrakech again!

8. My final site (Ain Chaib) from just outside the town.

9. The larger city (Ouled Teima) next to my site, from outside my town.

10. View from the window of my new homestay family's house. Pomegranate orchard!

11. Mosque in Marrakech, part 3. (Sorry...)

12. Random town on the drive to Marrakech.

13. The desert.

14. The desert again.

15. And some more. There's a lot of it about.

16. Small town in the mountains near Beni Mellal

17. Same. Big mountain.

18. Me and CBT mates.

19. Surroundings of current town at 7am.

xoxo!

Ruth and the Muskina Mutataweia

Well today I'm feeling sufficiently recovered from the past week - I slept for a solid 10 hours last night - so amazing. Even though I'm now back to freezing my behind off - in my room it's been around 9 degrees all day - about 50 degrees fahrenheit, also known as really cold for inside the house. While I was gone my family acquired the biggest furno I've ever seen, which is amazing. Very helpful for defrosting my hands when I'm trying to make flashcards to study with. And there's a lot of those going on at the moment. It would appear that our language proficiency tests are next week already. Not sure when that happened, but from now until next Tuesday or Wednesday (we don't know which day it'll be on) will be henceforth known as study week.

When I arrived back in my CBT town, my family was excited to see me back which was nice - even though most of the comments directed to me for the evening were along the lines of 'Muskina! Baeida!' which means 'Poor thing! Far!' referring to the fact that I'm a good 12/13 hours travel from here. It was nice to feel like my language improved a little while I was gone, so I could almost have conversations about my new town (conversations that include sentences without verbs, or incorrectly conjugated verbs, that is, but I'm going to call them conversation, okay?). Sorry family, but weekend visits are now a little harder for me. But this week we are having a family gathering on Wednesday afternoon, with all of our families - some tea and biscuits and a general chat about cross cultural bits and pieces. We will then also have a party next Friday, 2 days before we leave for good, which will be everyone - our families plus people in the community that we've made friends with. We'll then have a day to pack and then Sunday we wave goodbye. While in hub this weekend, the general consensus was that everyone is pretty excited about their new towns though, which is good news. Most of us are also planning to go to the craft fair in Marrakech in early December also, so that's exciting.

Some of us went for a good hike this morning, up one of the mountains behind the town, and got some amazing view of the town, and we all discussed how it's actually much, much warmer outside than in our houses. We've all had plenty of stories to trade about our new locations, and we're all still working out how far we are from each other and the such. I think we're also running a bathroom competition - so far we have an outhouse, turk in a pre-school and cockroaches crawling out of the turk (while in use) all as contenders. (Mine was the last one, btw. Yeah. Flushed that bastard, stat.) (Sorry for swearing Mum, but really - it was huge, and crawling out of the toilet at me. Pretty sure it had fangs.) Down South has some big insects, just to make that clear. My current family did assure me that Agadir is a beautiful city; they have family there, so I believe they visit from time to time. I've been doing some reading on Agadir, and the coastal area, which I'm very excited to explore. I'm eager to get back in a couple of weeks and attempt to sort out my housing situation so that I can start to get settled somewhere. Something to note about my new town - there are no addresses for the houses!

Also, just FYI, a few things I've learned about myself since I've been here.

1. I get carsick. Fact. Especially when in a coach on the road between Azrou and Kenitra. People here know what I'm talking about. Heinous.

2. I don't require as much alone time as I originally thought - not to say I don't like it, but it is possible for me to survive without it. As long as I get a couple of hours to organize my brains once a week or so.

3. I have no problem wearing a hat to bed.

4. I have no problem not showering for longer than maybe hygienic periods. Again, not that I like to do this, but I can survive if I need to. However, I do refuse to go without my favorite shampoo and conditioner - available in Morocco, thank goodness.

5. I really, really don't like olives, and really, really never will. Or hard-boiled eggs (of which I've had to eat two this week). But I'm actually okay with mint tea.

I'm sure there will be more to add to that list, but that's all for now.

Anyway, off to bed in my ice box.

xoxo.

Ruth and the Middle of the Desert

I'm going to back track over the last couple of days - this is going to be a long blog post - bear with me - but I'm going to talk a while since this is all about my final site!

So Sunday morning, we set off at 8 am for the Supratour station - there are several different types of coaches you can take within Morocco, and I've now tried several of them, and I've decided that I'm a fan of the CTM buses - CTM is government owned, and it's a little more expensive (25 DHs more on the way back from Kech) but it has air conditioning, which, when you're going to be living in a region that gets to 120 degrees in the summer, becomes very important.

There is another PCT in a site not far from me, so she and I traveled to Agadir, stopped and had lunch - fish tagine - obviously I need to explore Agadir more, but it would make sense that there is a fair amount of fish there. The LCF of another of our CBT groups is from there, so I'll be asking her for tips and hints.

After this, we went to the taxi station to get a petit taxi to the next town, Inzegan, from which we could both get grand taxis going our separate ways. I managed to negotiate that, in darija - was feeling pretty good about it, but turns out I was given the wrong address for my host family (which of course I didn't find out until 4 days later). I was given the address of my host mum's father, who lives in the large town next to mine, so unfortunately I ended up spending an obscene amount in a petit taxi that had to keep stopping and asking people if they knew my host family on the way there. Fun times! Now I know for the next time I suppose - it will be so much easier getting back.

So, I arrived around 3.30pm on Sunday, and met my host mum, Noura, who is great. She speaks some English, which is incredibly helpful as one can imagine. She is a stay at home mum to her 4 year old boy, Aymane, and likes watching arabic music videos, and blasting the stereo while she's cleaning each morning. Nourdine is my host dad, who is a farmer, and he works from 5am until around 8pm, coming home during the day for lunch some days. The little boy goes to kindergarden from 8am to 11am each day, and then generally runs around playing with the other neighborhood kids for the rest of the day.

After arriving, I was promptly introduced to all the people in the same courtyard of houses, who are actually all related to my family. The houses in my town are built differently than in the North - there is a central courtyard, off of which there are lots of doors to the rooms of the house, but you can't go through the rooms to another - you go out in to the courtyard. So in my courtyard, most everyone is somehow related to my host dad - he has 4 or 5 brothers and sisters, and at least 2 or 3 of them, plus their families, live in this courtyard.

Amina (and I'm unclear on the relationship to Nourdine) became my guide for my visit, which was really helpful, even though she speaks no English. Although I feel like my darija improved over the last couple of days, there was still some miming going on between she and I, but she was such a huge help in introducing me to people like my mul xodra - vegetable guy - who I went and sat with for a couple of hours on Wednesday, and he tested me on vegetable vocabulary. He also took me to see another of the co-ops in Ouled Teima, which is the town next to me.
Which brings me to Ouled Teima, which is a town of 60,000 people about 2km from Ait Chaib, and is my souk town. The souk there appears to be every single day, and has everything. There's quite the contrast between Ain Chaib and Ouled Teima - Ain Chaib is, as far as I can tell, is mostly women and children - I'm not sure what happens to the men during the day, but they seem to disappear to somewhere. The children have to come from somewhere, so they must be around. But Ouled Teima is mostly men, like all the hanoot owners and souq stall owners, so even after a couple of days in a town with all women, it was a little intimidating to be in a town full of men, especially as the American (well, English, we all know that) woman in town.

To jump to the women in my town - so I went to the co-op I will be working with seem great. They met with a distributor on Wednesday, who sells their product in Rabat and Marrakech as far as I can tell. Just as something to remember - all of this information is what I'm deciphering through limited darija - so some details may be inaccurate, since I don't know what they're talking about a lot of the time. But the products that they make are embroidered table runners, place mats, and napkins, crocheted bags for cell phones and candles, and amazing crocheted wire bracelets, earrings and necklaces. There is a craft fair in Marrakech at the beginning of December which my women are on the pending list for, but I'm going to attend anyway in order to get an idea of how the craft fair works - it's a Peace Corps initiated fair, so it'll be interesting to see in action.

So yesterday I left my town to get back to Marrakech (where I had real pizza, btw - it was pretty exciting in terms of the past two months), and met back up with a number of the Youth Development volunteers who are in what we've already dubbed the Dirty South with us. And what happens in the South, stays in the South, just remember that.

Anyway… I'm tired from being up since 5.30 am and being sat on a coach for 8.5 hours, so I'm done for now. If I think of something else I will let you all know! And there will be pictures soon.

xoxo.